Sagas of the Dinghies

Dinghies take you to remote places such as Hawksbill Cays. This is dinghy #2.

A few of you have been asking about this so it is time for the telling of the sagas of the dinghies.

Dinghy #1

The story begins back in Palm Beach, Florida earlier this spring where we were anchored for a protracted stay while we dealt with a variety of paperwork issues, including renewing a passport, renewing Layla’s documentation, and taxes. It all demanded a post office, time and patience - endless patience as documents were lost, re-sent, and bureaucracy frustrated all reason. We were anchored between the Flagler Memorial Bridge and Royal Park Bridge in an area known to have strong tidal currents that would reverse 180 degrees with the flow of the ebb and flood tides.  When combined with storm winds, these currents can challenge anchoring skills. On one of these occasions, Bud saw a trawler galloping toward a recently anchored motor vessel. He shouted to Tracy that he was taking the dinghy to alert the captain about the danger. Bud called the captain on deck and together they attempted to fend off the trawler as it became tangled in the anchor chain of the motor yacht. The trawler lost part of the stern swim platform in the event but otherwise did no damage to the other vessel. Soon, a Sheriff Patrol boat assisted as the trawler continued dragging towards the Flagler Bridge while Bud departed. The trawler was retrieved soon after by the owner before the Tow Boat contractors arrived to salvage the vessel, and before the boat impacted the bridge. Back at Layla, Bud saw the dinghy was leaking water around the transom in the area that had been repaired previously on our trip to Marathon, Florida. It was apparent that the aggressive maneuvering had opened the repaired seam. Such repairs are common on older inflatable boats and they seldom last. If we wanted to have trouble-free boating, we would need a new dinghy.

Dinghy #1.  Daily bailing of the leaky dinghy became old very quickly. 

Dinghy #2

A HUGE boat show was coincident with the dinghy problem. Imagine a boat show where they bring in docks to accommodate hundreds of boats including 200+ ft. mega yachts! We found a brand new dinghy at a good price (Highfield 310) and the company (Inflatable Boat Pro) agreed to take the old dinghy for repairs and to sell it on consignment.

The new dinghy proved its worth some weeks later in another wandering boat incident. Bud and the local sheriff rescued a sailboat that had dragged anchor and was headed toward the Royal Palm Bridge. The owners, who were not onboard, later showed their appreciation for saving their boat by paying for a couple of nights at the Pier 66 marina when we sailed south to Fort Lauderdale! We dearly loved our new dinghy. It was fast, dry, stable and lightweight.

Dinghy #2.  Our beautiful brand new, non-leaking, fast, dry and gorgeous dinghy.

Dinghy #3

Move now to July and the Abacos, Bahamas. We were living the cruiser’s life as we had connected with a number of other sailors and began to have quite an active social life. One evening we joined our South African friends and others for a “braai” (Afrikaans for barbeque) on the beach at Lynyard Cay. Along with several other dinghies, we secured our dinghy by burying the anchor high on the beach. After a good time of dinner, fireside chats and frivolity, it was time to head back to our boats, at about 11:00 pm. Our dinghy was gone! We found the anchor in the water about 20 feet from where it had been buried on the beach with no dinghy attached. There was no frayed line to show that the line had been cut. Although the anchor had apparently dragged, the line had come “untied”. We searched in two dinghies until 2 am with no sightings. Early the next morning, we searched again for hours in the coves and bays, and anywhere as we tried to guess, with wind and current, what was the most likely path of the wayward dinghy. 

Marita, Holli, and Shirley enjoy "Sundowners" at the braai.

Collection of sailors gathered for the braai on the fateful night.

Good food and fun at the braai. 

It is devastating to lose a dinghy, not just because of the cost, but because we were stranded - No beachcombing, no snorkeling, no shopping, no fun.

Our friends came to our aid in the true spirit of cruisers everywhere. They called us on the VHF radio each day to pick us up to go ashore for walks, beachcombing, snorkeling, and sundowners. They looked after us and kept us with the group.

But we did NEED a dinghy. We made repeated announcements on the VHF, the local cruisers’ net and the pubs popular with boaters alerting everyone about the missing dinghy. As the days passed we realized we needed to go to plan B. We called marinas and boat repair shops to ask about used dinghies for sale. One day, we received a promising response from Edwin’s Boat Yard on Man O’ War Cay informing us that they had “one inflatable boat for sale”. The “gang” was eager, hopeful and assembled for a trip to town. 

We were led to a building with dinghies stacked one on top of the other. The upper dinghy from one stack was hauled out. It was an older West Marine inflatable with a removable floor. It had “a slow leak” we were told. “Water or air?” we asked. Probably both, we surmised as we got no clear response. It was quickly re-inflated with an inverted vacuum cleaner hose and, you know, it looked pretty good. White glue trails around the seams told us it had been repaired in much in the same manner as our old dinghy. Well, at least we understand that problem. “Does it have a motor?” someone asked. (It was so great to have a team to back us up.) Yes! A Nissan 5 hp 2-stroke motor was pulled off a stand and transferred to a tank filled with water. After a couple of quick pulls on the starter, the motor smoked but sprang to life. The carburetor might need a little attention. We discovered the internal fuel tank was secured by only one of three bolts, but that was OK as long as the engine cover was on. The gas cap required duct tape to keep it from falling off as the threads on the tank were stripped. We would need some more duct tape for the cap. But, we are in the Bahamas and we need a dinghy. The “gang” began to nod in agreement, “This is OK”. 

The "gang" (John, Alan, Bud, and Tony) checking out the "new" old dinghy (#3) just purchased in Man O' War Cay.

We walked to the office and, as advised by the collection of sailors, we made an offer $200 less than the asking price. The friendly office lady said, “The owner won’t take less than $450”. We said, “Well, $450 it is. Will you take a check?” The office folks had a short discussion and said, “Yes, we will take a check, but it will be $5.88 for the bank fee”. We smiled, agreed to the fees and wrote the check.

Consider this - we are in the Bahamas. Man O’ War Cay has ONE bank and it is open only on ONE day, Wednesday, from 11:00-1:00! We were buying a boat on Thursday, which meant that it would be DAYS before they could cash that check - a check that was from ANOTHER COUNTRY and from people on a SAILBOAT - from people who are on the move and can skip out of the country anytime! The wonderful people at Edwin’s Boat Yard did not even question that! They are clearly from another time when people are trusted on their word. We love Man O’ War Cay!

Bud taking Dinghy #3 for the first ride.  Actually, it wasn't as bad as it looks.
The engine did run, he just needed to get into deeper water to lower the motor.

Dinghy #3.  It was a wet ride, but when she warmed up, she was fast if no one else was in the boat!

It remains a mystery where dinghy #2 is. Possibly, it is wandering the open Atlantic Ocean with a full fuel tank, a good-running 9.9 hp Mercury outboard, a 25 foot anchor line, and two pairs of our favorite flip flops. Clearly, someone will be very pleased to find this little boat.

It is also a mystery as to what actually happened on the beach at Lynyard Cay. It is a puzzle how the anchor ended up 20 feet from the beach. Possibly, in the chaos of one of the groups departing and boarding their dinghy earlier in the evening, someone tripped on the anchor line which contributed to the dinghy breaking free to wander the planet. Regardless, one fact remains - the anchor line was free, not cut, and so the simplest explanation is Bud’s knot on the anchor failed. So be it.

The “new” old dinghy, despite its limitations, gave us our mobility back. We did have to endure the good-humored hazing from the South Africans - “Don’t let Bud tie off your dinghy…Make sure that line is secure, Bud tied it” and many variations on that theme for days. They reminded us that among friends, it is “what we do”. Shirley shared “Come Back Dinghy” by Eileen Quinn with us one evening.  Some might call this our “theme song”. (Click on the picture for the link to the song.)

Click on the picture above for a link to the song "Come Back Dinghy".

“Danke” (thank you) John and Shirley on Kaya Moya, Tony and Robyn on Alley Cat Too, Alan and Marita on Alley Cat, and John and Holli on Shiloh for your friendship! We look forward to meeting up with you again somewhere, sometime. 

Meet the Locals - Abacos

 "Where are you going?"  Two very outgoing local girls (5 years old, just "friends") entertained us
as they chewed on "baby" coconuts. We had to talk them out of joining us on our walk around
New Plymouth, Green Turtle Cay.

It did not take long to realize that the Bahamas and this extended travel had changed us. We discovered we were living with a new and full appreciation of all around us.  Each day we were rewarded with something to remind us to not take the day, the water, the critters, the people, each other or life for granted.

Angelfish, parrotfish, and friends on Mermaid Reef, Abacos.

French Angelfish (in 3 feet of water) off Man O' War Cay.

Midnight Parrotfish with impressive teeth on Mermaid Reef. 

White Sea Urchin (Tripneustes) found on the sandy bottom mixed with sea grass of Manjack Cay.

Fowl Cay reef is one of the more diverse and healthy coral reefs we visited. 

Red Cushion Starfish can be readily seen in the clear water moving (slowly) along the white sand bottom.

Diverse collection of reef fishes attracted to Tracy on
Mermaid Reef - the "Schnorchelparadies" as described our German friend, Michael from the sailboat, "Kassiopeia".

Grey Angelfish, Blue Parrotfish and others on Mermaid Reef. 

Feral pigs can be found on several cays. These two were foraging in the decaying algae found in the upper intertidal zone. As boaters often feed the pigs, these pigs became interested in joining us on the dinghy. 

Nerita snails found on the upper intertidal zone of many cays.
As you might guess, these guys are very tolerant of high temperatures.

Cormorants on a "break" off No Name Cay.

Juvenile King Helmet Snail (Cassis) found (and released) on the beach of Tilloo Cay. 

Bahamas Red Cushion Sea Star (Oresaster) found while snorkling Matlow's Cay.  

Mutton Snapper caught near Spanish Cay, Abacos. Beautiful, very tasty and fairly abundant fish.

Another Mutton Snapper caught while sailing near Crab Cay, Abacos.

Southern stingray cruising the reef off Sandy Cay, Abacos.

Tracy and Black Jack enjoying "sundowners" from the deck of Nancy and Lorry's cottage
next to the "narrows" on Man O' War Cay. 

Freshly made conch salad for lunch in Marsh Harbor.

A local fisherman was proud of this catch (grouper) from Man O' War Cay.  

Nancy and Lorry now live in the cottage on Man O' War Cay they started to build over 30 years ago.

Albury's Sail Shop is a much visited attraction on Man O' War Cay.

The seamstresses in Albury's Sail Shop continue to stock their shelves. 

An example of fine wood working artistry of local artist, Andy Aubury from Man O' War Cay.

What else can we say?


As you can see from the map (click on the map above) of our travels, we are back in North Carolina. Layla is "on the hard" in the Beaufort Marine Center yard waiting on the end of hurricane season and the oppressive heat to end and then...what's next? We are still thinking about that. We will post more "dispatches" of our time in the islands shortly. We do appreciate hearing from you. Let us know what you think.  

Sailing Community - We Are Not Alone

Big horizons put you in your proper place.  A squall approaching in the Abacos, Bahamas.

We started this trip down the coast and across to the Bahamas by ourselves, just the two of us. In the Bahamas we were seldom alone. And that has been just fine with us.

In the early days of preparing to embrace a new life of extended travel on a boat, a research colleague of many years, Michelle Norris, considered the isolation of a boat and questioned Bud about how he might miss interacting with people.  Bud exclaimed that, in fact we could expect to be interacting more, not less, on the boat, and we might find this life to be rich and full with diverse and interesting people.

We have discovered that the community of people who travel by boat is beyond what we had imagined.  It would be too simplistic to explain that these outstanding friendships arise because we just have so much in common – similar challenges, adventures, and the life of travel.

Conversations with Nancy on her cottage deck in Man O' War Cay.
She revealed that she had been a stunt pilot.

Certainly, it is that, and more.  Consider when many long distance sailors meet, the first question is seldom the most commonly asked question in the world outside of sailing – “What do you do?”  It has been said that this select group is not much different from the Foreign Legion in which questions of a former life is only of minor interest.  More likely the first questions include:  Where did you come from?  Where are you going?  How did you fix that?

Always willing to help, South Africans John, Alan, and Tony assisted Bud in the purchase
and launching of our "new" dinghy in Man O' War Cay.

It is impossible to categorize these individuals as a single ‘type’ of person.  We have met American, Canadian, English, Australian, French, South African, and German sailors. They have much in common but that has little to do with their former professions, nationalities, political beliefs, prosperity or lack of it.

Often in just a few hours, from conversations, sharing meals, hikes, sundowners on the beach, staring up at the stars, these voyagers bond at a level others may envy.  These bonds are remarkably strong. Admittedly, it is still a mystery to us how this happens and how it happens repeatedly.

On a walk to the beach on Man O' War Cay.
John collected and prepared a refreshing coconut water for Shirley and Bud.

Dinghies tied together for a snorkel on the reef at Sandy Cay.
Most excursions were with the entire 'gang'.

John keeps the tradition of blowing the conch at sunset.

The downside of friendships between world travelers is that the parting and heading in different directions is inevitable and sometimes painful.  A breakup of a ‘tribe’ is difficult. This explains why these sailors tend not to dwell on lengthy goodbyes.  Mostly, they say, “Until we meet again”.  These travelers don’t know where or when, or if it will actually happen, but most like to believe it is possible to meet again.

Bud and Tracy with John, John, Shirley, Marita, and Holli assembled before goodbyes.

We thank the sailing “community” for enriching our lives and showing us what Hal Roth, the circumnavigator, described as “the authentic life”. If you think your horizons might be limited or you are feeling isolated, go find a blue water cruising sailor. You may find some good humor, good conversation, and possibly some vicarious adventure. However, you may want to avoid that guy who sits on a boat and never leaves the dock!

Layla at anchor off Crab Cay, Abacos, Bahamas.

Catching up with a small post

Our overnight passages began with open seas, solitude and sunsets like this.

Much has happened since our last posting. In the Bahamas for about 2 months we found that we had such a busy social life that we just had little time (and access to internet) to post. We had many adventures and will attempt to catch up on many of them over the next several days in separate postings.

Little sailors in little boats in the anchorage in Charleston harbor.

As a quick review we are now in Charleston, South Carolina after making a two night passage from St. Augustine, about 200 miles. It was a great trip with nice weather and winds sufficient for sailing and catching a couple of fish while underway. We left Great Sale Cay in the Bahamas about two weeks ago accompanied by our friends Tony and Robyn on their catamaran, Alleycat Too. The passage to St. Augustine included a two night run under moonlit skies. 

A mahi mahi caught while underway on the passage from St. Augustine to Charleston.

There is no way we can begin to summarize quickly our stay in the Abacos...just too much to tell. Check out our travels on the InReach satellite tracking above until we post more.

Arrival in the Bahamas and Catching Up with Black Cat

Gendron family on Layla one afternoon at Mangrove Cay.

Cruising is more than simply sailing (or motoring) around from place to place.  One of the great joys is meeting the other people of like minds that go to the sea.  The cruising community is an incredibly diverse group that challenges one description for them all.  It seems fitting that we would begin our journey by meeting up with another cruising family that was ending theirs.  We met the French Canadian crew of Black Cat last November at the Morehead City Docks, just as they were heading from North Carolina to the British Virgin Islands.  Bernard and Karine had a year of leave from their jobs, and were taking their two children, Victor (10) and Mia (8), on a Caribbean circumnavigation to include the French Islands especially.  We attempted to keep in touch as best travelers can these days by email, and by position reports and messages from their satellite transmitter (InReach) as well as their blog.  We were pleased to hear they were returning from their Caribbean voyage through the Exumas in the Bahamas.  Would it be possible that we could actually meet?  We were preparing to cross the Gulf Stream... 

It was remarkable that after all that time and the distance, there was Black Cat coming into the anchorage in the Bahamas on Sunday, the day after we had arrived.  With hugs and kisses, we caught up on their stories and discussed where we might travel together, at least for a couple of days.  The following day was Monday and Bernard and Richard took the dinghy into the marina to meet with the Customs official.  We learned at the fuel dock that the official was at the airport but would return “sometime today”.   And then we learned that it was also a holiday.  It was “Witt Monday”.  Nobody was really sure what “Witt Monday” is all about, but in the Bahamas (or anywhere) when you are told you have a holiday, you take it.  All other businesses were closed.  This was just one of the many observations you could make that reminded you - “you are in a different place”.  And you know, that was just OK.  A little while later the Customs official arrived and motioned Richard to the air conditioned office.  The official was quite business-like and efficient with assisting in completing the variety of forms. A nod completed the process and then there was the exchange of an envelope of $300 cash for the privilege of staying in the Bahamas.  It was thrilling!

Raising the Bahamian courtesy flag after taking down the yellow quarantine flag.  We are officially cleared in.

After we cleared in, and Black Cat cleared out from Customs and Immigration, we spent a day at the Old Bahama Bay Resort and Marina in West End indulging in the pool, beach, and grill.  

Two free fish (“yellow eyes”) given by a sportfisher for part of our dinner.

The 'Grill Girl', Mia, assisting with dinner.

Preparing one 'yellow eye' for ceviche and the other for grilling.

We then spent the next week cruising across the Little Bahama Banks from West End to Great Sale Cay.  We motor sailed about halfway across the Banks where we anchored at the uninhabited island of Mangrove Cay to wait out a pesky series of squalls with strong winds, and impressive lightning and rain.  We traveled another 20 miles to the uninhabited island of Great Sale Cay and spent the next several days exploring the beaches and snorkeling.  The weather continued to challenge us with wind and rain.  Finally, a weather window finally came for Black Cat to cross the Gulf Stream and return to the US and begin the final leg to a US boatyard where Black Cat would be put up for sale.  We all felt that this was happening far too fast.  We were not prepared to say goodbye but before we knew it, we were helping store the dinghy on deck and then watched as they weighed anchor and left the anchorage.  We waved goodbye as Black Cat headed back across the Banks and, on this leg, to Charleston, SC.  We are sure we will meet up again, maybe next time in Montreal.

Layla with her anchor light on in the midst of a menacing squall at Great Sale Cay.  Picture taken by Bernard from Blackcat.

Early birthday cake for Tracy made by Karine on Blackcat. 

Big kids coming over for play day on Layla.

Victor exploring Layla, down below.

Victor at play on Layla.

Mia, the swimming beauty, on deck.

Moon rising over Great Sale Cay.

Thunderstorm clouds in Great Sale Cay.

Sundown at Great Sale Cay.

Laughing gull seemed to want some company.  He was a repeat visitor in the late afternoons at Great Sale Cay.

Blackcat departing for their Gulf Stream crossing to the US.

We are on our own now.  After leaving Great Sale Cay, we continued along the Little Bahama Banks to Foxtown on the Little Abacos Island.  We indulged in a guilty pleasure of an indescribable lunch of “cracked conch” (breaded and fried) at “Da Valley” Restaurant.  Tracy spent her birthday there snorkeling with the turtles around Hawksbill Cays. 

Cracked conch lunch at “Da Valley” restaurant, Foxtown.

Tracy snorkeling with the turtles on Hawksbill Cays on her birthday.

Sunset at Foxtown, Abacos.

When a weather window opened up again, we headed towards Green Turtle Cay.  We anchored just north of the island in a cove between Manjack Cay and Crab Cay.  This anchorage is the first that we call a “destination”.  Manjack Cay is delightfully tropical, with thick mangroves lining the middle of the cay, coral ledges on the Abaco Sea side, and silky pink sand lining the Atlantic Ocean side.  The water is unbelievably colorful.  We are anchored in a sea grass bed which is littered with living sea biscuits and just about as many sea biscuit tests (dead shells).  These tests are beautiful, and lay on the bottom like a present to be picked up.  The shallower areas are home to sea urchins.  Tracy is in heaven here!  (You may know she spent several years studying sea urchins for her dissertation research.)  Snorkeling on the ocean side along rocky areas, a variety of sea urchins that can withstand the high energy of waves were found, along with sea fans, corals, and a multitude of colorful fish from sergeant majors, huge parrot fish, butterfly fish, angel fish, wrasses, and so many more.  We are enjoying our time here.  We have arrived.

Solitude.  Beach at Manjack Cay ocean side.

Calm day Atlantic Ocean side of Manjack Cay.

Exploring the north end of Manjack Cay by dinghy, watching a thunderstorm pass.

Standing on ancient reef on the ocean side of Fiddle Cay.

Sea biscuit test (dead) on sea grass bed at Fiddle Cay.

Queen conch (alive) in the sea grass beds at Manjack Cay.

Tiki hut in a bay off of the anchorage at Manjack Cay.

But, as we have discovered many times on this travel, the weather will dictate what we do next and the weather will be changing soon.  We will need to find a better place to anchor for “an indefinite time”, as the weather guru advises.  We expect to move on to Green Turtle Cay next, and then settle in at Marsh Harbor. 

Diving for sea urchins at Manjack Cay.

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